Akce » Lošinj
The island of Lošinj, Carinthian waterfalls and Czech campsites
Making the kitchen Milouš-proof and other preparations
After 10 years we set out for the sea again, this time with little Viky to the Adriatic.
We weren't exatcly excited about staying in the heat and salty water - remebering our holiday
in Italy still gives us bumps - but then everything was different and there wasn't much we
wouldn't do for our boy's smooth skin.
In the end we followed an acquaintance's recommendation and in January visited her favourite travel agency, the owner of which suggested going to a place she revisits every year - the Croatian island Losinj, hotel Helios. At first Croatia didn't make me very interested as the country is a very popular destination for Czechs and we wanted our holiday to have a little bit exotic feel, which is hardly possible lying on the beach surrounded by hundreds of Czechs. Neverthetless, when I saw some photos from Lošinj and heard it is a quiet place with pretty countryside and not too many people, we said our final yes. One week later we had to rebook the stay beacause at the beginning of July, for which I had planned our holiday, the World Cup in Germany was going to be only half way through, which had eluded my attention. Following that we set the date of the beginning of the stay to be 15 July. As soon as we told Viky that in the summer we would be going to the sea, he went to pack up his toys.
As I was listening to the travel agent telling me the journey would take 11 hours including the night (which is the "normal" way to go there"), I was getting sure it would not be normal for us. In June I came up with the idea of leaving one day earlier and staying overnight about half way through. This alternative was uncertain till the last week before the holiday as Martin wasn't sure whether he would be allowed to take holiday on the 14th but in the end things worked out well for us. So I spent several evenings surfing the net and doubled the phone bill, but finally I managed to book a room in gostišče (guest house) Šmuk by email, which was just behind the Slovenian border with Austria, near the town of Tržič. For the way back I prepared several variants of staying overnight from a leaflet I had received from the centre of the Austrian region of Rosental-Carinthia.
Step by step I was also making a list of things to be done before our departure and finding out I was really lucky to be a teacher and have holiday from the beginning of July as the list was still very long in the last week and I was running like a bat out of hell - there were things to buy such as swimming shoes, beach mats, my husband's swimming trunks and sunglasses (buying which I was asked to supervise), food for the journey, spare food for Milous... The same on the net, where I was trying to find the best routes without having to drive along motorways to enjoy it all and not flying though Austria, Slovenia and Croatia like on an express train.
Then there were just the last odds and ends to do - such as making the kitchen Milous-proof so that he could fly there without doing much harm to himself or the room, which meant: move his cage there, prepare a stock of fruit and veges and grain, move out all the plants (he "cuts" them off with lots of pleasure), hide all candles (he pecks them to bits), put down the displayed bottles, cans and jugs (he knocks them down when flying or landing), shut safely all shelves with glass shutters (flies in, knocks down), clear all magazines and table-mats (loves pecking), take away pieces of bread getting dry for some future rabbits (yummy + pecks and throws all over), put all pencils into a drawer (the eraser on the top is great to crumble), put all glasses away (even though there is nothing in them, they are great to sit on, and when taking off, they fall) etc.
On Friday morning Viky opened his eyes saying "Is it today that we will go to the sea?" At half past nine: Agila is packed with bags, Viky has all his excavators in the car boot, Milous is moved to the kitchen, the carp in the pond are fed, the CD player on, granny informed about how to lure Milous into the cage and to buy us the newspaper the following Friday....and off we go!
The journey to Austria was ok, even though the little Agila was panting going up the Tauern and Karawanken Mnts (mostly gear 2).
And even in spite of Viky's continual asking "When will we be in the mountains?",
"When will we go by that ship at last?" and "Where is the pub where we will sleep tonight?".
The only slightly nervy situation was driving through the Austrian city of Klagenfurt, which had probably been robbed by signpost thieves the night before. We were also slowly finding out I am definitely a better driver than navigator, so we took up the roles that fitted us best and for the rest of the journey to Losinj and back we kept them. One more bitter thing - on our first Austrian stopover Martin managed to forget his sunglasses on the roof of the car, which he had only had for fewer than 48 hours. When he remembered several hundred meters later and we returned, there were only frangments left on the road... Oh well.
We looked for Gostišče Šmuk few kms behind the Austrian-Slovenian border for a few minutes and then got instructions from some local youngsters, who, in contrast with the older generation, who could only speak some German, mastered the language of the band Death (as I had been told by my husband). We would hardly find it ourselves as the village of Retnje, where it was situated, spread up and down the hills. Under one of them was a group of wooden buildings, which looked hospitable. Along a stream with a mill wheel you could go past a hayloft and bee-hives, where we always saw a busy bee-keeper whenever we came there, and get to an enclosure with fallow deer and moufflons, which we could feed with dandelion and raspberry leaves. The cats sleeping on the hay didn't long for being friendly with us and obviously didn't understand when we called "pussy" at them in Czech.
The guest house was just as friendly as it looked: a nice room, a cosy pub and a helpful waiter, who patiently answered my curious enquiries about the difference between Brat- a Backkartoffeln (in German: one is fried and the other roast, can't remember any longer...) or later about the name and ingredients of a delicious bright red dip we got on the plate with pljeskavica (yummy! It is spicy rissoles from beef and mutton, a speciality of the former Yugoslavian countries.) Viky was happy too as the menu included also his traditional pub meal: chips with ketchup :-) Btw, the dip is called Ajvar (read: aivar) and it also belongs among the national specialities. We bought a jar of it on Lošinj, so if you'd like to try it, just come to a barbecue to our place. You can buy it in Tesco stores too.
In the morning we met a Czech couple living in Germany who were just on their way back from the island. Unfortunately, they had forgotten their pasports and left the island so they had to go through the ferry queue two more times, plus the journey across all the island... Then we said bye to the moufflons and the bee-keeper, thanked the waiter for hospitality (hvala lepa) as he hadn't given us change for our Euros in Slovenian money, which would have meant storing thousands of Slovenian tolars (the exchange rate EUR-SIT is 1:239), and headed for Hrvatska.
Not coping to observe griffons
We passed through villages and towns of lovely names and looks such as Kokrica,
Logatec, Pivka, Skofja Loka, Golnik, Rovte a Kalce, and on the Croatian border we changed Dober dan! (good day) to Dobar dan! (they both sounded the same though).
We entered the Adriatic magistrala to go through Rupa, Permani and Matulji, and we saw the Adriatic for the first time
and went on towards Brestova, a ferry port. On the way we had to watch out for tens of tourists
heading for crowded beaches, scooters and motorbikes shooting out of lanes lining the road
and also cars aiming to the south-west of Croatia, appearing in increasing numbers.
It is highly probable my Croatian isn't good enough to understand the word magistrala (the same in Czech, in English arterial road)
as in Czech we would surely call a road winding along the Kvarner coast and changing
direction left right up and down every 100 meters something different. Then we turned off the "magistrala"
at a weird crossroads towards the port, where Viky finally was to see the ship he had abeen asking about
for so long. We were probably lucky to get there at the time most tourists decided to do the same
because the queue was going at a snail speed for about 1.5 hours before we finally fought off
the last window-cleaner, embarked the third ferry Jadrolinija and reached the bank of the island Cres.
We looked forward to being at the hotel in about an hour without knowing we were in for a 2-hour drive up and down the serpentines in a fleet that had left the ferry gate, following panting caravans and Poles probably not used to driving up a hill. What we mostly did was have a break and let them go ahead or swear quietly hoping they would turn off the main road, which they mostly did. It was probably because we were going to almost the very end of the island Losinj, which is linked to Cres with a bridge, and south of us there were just a few more campsites and hotels. As I had to keep my eyes on the road all the time and Viky was asleep, it was only Martin that had enough time to observe Eurasian griffons sailing on the air. These are, together with dolphins, a symbol of Lošinj.
As soon as we reached Lošinj over a tip-up bridge (the Osor Channel was made by Greeks or Romans ages ago to make a shorter way to Italy for ships - originally Cres and Lošinj were one island), it was clear we had made the right choice with Lošinj. Unlike the dry rocky Cres, Lošinj is covered with rich vegetation - there are pine woods, agaves, palm trees and oleanders, and it looks very fresh even in scourching heat.
At 5 pm we finally got to our hotel. The road was lined by signposts showing way to tens of villas, hotels, campsites and apartments, and it was so in the Čikat cove as well. There was the building of the Helios hotel built in an amazing socialistic style, both inside and outside. We were spoilt from Šmuk :-) The fact that the room was tiny didn't matter though as we only came to the room to sleep. It was more important though to learn to sit on the toilet without hitting our left feet against the corner of the shower or getting our right side scratched by the basin. Even without getting directly hurt, sitting down was, particularly for Martin, a task for a jigsaw puzzle master.
Pljeskavica and animatore
As our accommodation requirement said "a room in a quiet part of the hotel
without the dancing terrace", we were rather surprised to have a view of the stage - and that
was when we didn't have a clue what was to be coming from it! On the other hand, the menu
in the restaurant was pleasant to see. All the 250 hotel guests came to meet there every
breakfast and dinner time. Not only the choice of food was good, the food itself was delicious!
Neither of us ever had a problem to choose - Martin and I best loved pljeskavica, fried bass (fish)
and tasty vegetables, such as fried eggplant, yummy! As expected, Viky preferred melon,
cakes and chips with ketchup, or spaghetti and ketchup. As we had half-board, we were allowed to put on plate
anything and in any quantities, but we were surprised to understand we had to pay for the drinks.
Unfortunately, we didn't succeed in exchanging more than 100 Croatian kunas back in the CR, so that was
a bit of a problem at first, especially when the soft drinks cost twice as much than a glass
of wine but when we found an exchange office, everything was ok. By the way, we were lucky not to
come across any bad beers - quite the opposite: all the beers were very good (e.g. Zlatorog or Leško).
Right after the first dinner we went for a walk and discovered a sandy beach behind the pine grove at the hotel, a few meters away there was a children's playground, a bar, and along the cove there was a concrete promenade above the shallow sea rocks, where crabs, shrimps and sea-snails emerged with the low tide. Wherever we were on the island, we could always hear cicadas chirping noisily. Perhaps they worked in shifts because they never seemed to shut up - or we were asleep then.
When we were coming back to the hotel, we could hear from afar what was to be heard every night: genuine Yugo serenades, every other day alternating with a so-called Minidisco, which didn't unfortunately mean a short discotheque (at least there would have been a change) but a series of silly songs for kids with animation, so "animatore" were runnind about the dance floor" with kids and doing exercise in the rhythm of "Head shoulders knees and toes", inviting the parents to join in, which no-one ever did. So, on the first evening we had Duo Scala (one serenade-maker) playing, and on the other days a trio of two or a terribly out-of-tune mandoline-player. They all played the same (not only the style, the songs repeated as well), with indispensable synthetic music. In my opinion here the word "synthetic" isn't enough synthetic, because the songs were so far from being sung naturally, or even out of tune, that it was easier to concentrate on a short part being sung in harmony with the keyboards. Moreover, there was a horrendous host shouting in between in Croatian, Slovenian, Italian, and last but not least German. She looked like a witch with a poor make-up from a Brothers Grim story. Enough about our cultural life.
Fishing garlic and stamps as a souvenir
The following morning we went on the beach equipped with mats, excavators and biscuits
(it really was impossible to make Viky understand he has to have a big breakfast) and sat down
under a pine tree where there was some hope for shade to last relatively long. It was nice
there for about an hour before everyone arrived. It looked like all temporary inhabitants of Losinj
had gathered on the Čikat beach because you had to watch out not to crush someone's sunglasses on the nose.
We decided to persevere in the morning and while Viky and I were swimming and sunbathing, Martin set out walking to find
a better place. He did - one (we called it Headland) had a stony beach and was pretty quiet, and another one
was a few hundred meters further on along the coast, there were rocks and it was easy to reach across the wood
directly from Helios. In both these places we had to wear swimming shoes as the stones and rocks were sharp
but staying there was much more pleasant and quiet. On Headland there was a strong wind and after three pm
it was in the shade so then we always moved to the rocky place called Srebrna Cove.
That faced the west so the sun shone there till the evening, the cicadas roared and, moreover, we had a view of the open sea and relative privacy. Also, we could explore the tidal ponds and the surrounding nature, and when there was a wind from the sea, we had waves, too - then Viky would whoop when there was a wave (perhaps from a boat on still days). Inside Čikat the sea surface was like a lake. On the other hand, it was possible to feed fish there, when we swam as far as the string of buoys - as soon as they saw us, the fish were there and ate pieces of bread an inch from us. It is true that Viky longed for staying on the beach to play in the sand but as soon as we arrived at a different place, he would find other things to do: either he "caught fish" with stems of wild garlic being "rods", or picked pine cones and pebbles, sailed a toy boat, observed crabs, cooked us "sausages" in a toy bucket or just ate. Therefore, dinner time was mostly difficult as he usually wasn't hungry, his "belly ached" or there was his standard sentence "I can't eat any more". A few days later we found out how to make that work: he wasn't allowed to eat anything after 5pm, swimming made him hungry enough and then in the evening he could eat a horse :-)
Every other day we made half-day trips to the local ports - at first on foot (20 minutes) to the town of Mali (=small) Lošinj, which is bigger than Veli (=big) Lošinj. Mali Lošinj has about 6600 inhabitants out of the 8000 people of the total population of the island. The town spread along a bay with a marina full of anchoring motor boats, yachts and excursion boats, which at ten am mostly set out on trips to one of the small islands in the area.
All the promenade was lined with cafés and restaurants, and we walked around there and had ice-cream: the portions were enormous, which Viky loved, but it was terribly sweet and brutally creamy). Then we headed to the streets above to have a look at the churches, walk through the lanes and find a shop to buy Viky a new float as we had pricked the one he had from home on the very first day. He chose a green one with Mickey Mouse and Goofy.
I also bought some postcards and stamps to send family and friends but I could only post them to those whose addresses I knew by heart as I had left my adddress book back home. So my Japanese and Costa Rican penfriends had to wait for me to send them Croatian postards from Budějovice. The remaining Croatian stamps are in my desk drawer now so if you happen to go to Croatia and plan to be sending postcards, just let me know and you can have the stamps for free :-) When visiting Mali Lošinj for the second time, I bought myself a pretty necklace with a turquois stone. I really liked it a lot. Unfortunately, I found out only at home I had nothing to wear it with :-( Silly.
Bottle-nosed dolphins and Nikola is Ana.
Another trip we made was to Veli Lošinj. We went by car as it would have taken us another hour on foot from Mali Lošinj,
and it was getting hotter. Even though the town is really small (just 1000
inhabitants), we found it much prettier and friendlier than its bigger neighbour. It stretches along two small coves (Veli Losinj a Rovenska)
and its churches are very beautiful too, particularly the baroque church of Sveti Anton Pustinjak
(Saint Anthony the Hermit). Moreover, on entering the town we came across a Maritime Educational Centre,
which was a one-room museum telling you everything about the sea life around Lošinj. When we handed the receptionist
a 50-Euro note (the exchange offices in Mali Lošinj didn't have any Kunas to exchange
and we had only been in Veli Lošinj for about 5 minutes),
she popped her eyes and just charged us the few HRK and EUR coins Martin found in his pockets.
On a computer we answered 14 out of 15 dolphin quiz questions right and came second in the top ten.
I do admit we chose the easiest variant of the test, on the other hand we had to puzzle out the
English names of dolphin and whale species, and answer questions about what they eat or how long
the females are pregnant - and we probably got it right :-)
In Veli Lošinj we were trying to find a villa from an internet description, which had been built by a Habsburg archduke Charles Stephen in 1866 and called Seewarte (that's in German, meaning Sea-watch). It was supposed to be surrounded by a beautiful park, in which he had planted more than "200 exotic plants". Local inhabitants not speaking any foreign languages were first trying to tell us the way to the nearest car park as that was as close to the word "park" as they could get. In the end we were understood by an American who had lived there for some time and we finally found it. The park wasn't of extraordinary beauty at all. It was nice but jungle-like and the owners were absolutely unaware of the possibility of tourists coming to see it. There was no reference at all to the founder, let alone signs with plant names - mostly trees. We did not see any exotic plants around either. Moreover, the villa was rebuilt to house a sanatorium for patients with respiratory and skin problems so we didn't admire the architecture and decided to leave quickly.
We passed by a massive watch-tower called Usok-kula, managed to exchange kunas and then we continued to look for the oldest existing building in the town: the Roman church of Saint Nicholas (Sveti Nikola), which was built on top of a hill above the town and which we were planning to take as the starting point to get to a cove where we could swim in the afternoon and which is less occupied by tourists. We tried three times but we always ended up at a Veli Lošinj car park or in Mali Lošinj. Only then a young local told us to go up the very narrow lanes (and I do mean narrow - thank God for our little Agila!) to find it.
We almost thought we had it when suddenly there was a signpost saying "Sv. Ana". Oh well, we said and went on, perhaps there is another little church and from that we can get to Nikola. And, a minute later, we stood in front of a church with a notice saying something about Sveti Nikola on it, and also asking not to park cars there on the following Sunday as there would be a country feast. Fortunately it was Wednesday. I am not sure whether Ana is a nick for Nikola or whether we had passed by Ana without noticing it (but also without any signposts showing the way to Nikola). From there we used a map to find a footpath to the nearest cove called Javorna. So we walked along the narrow footpaths full of stones, rocks and lizards, lined with low light grey stone walls - they were dividers between us and agaves, pine trees and thorny bushes all around. We had no idea whatsoever why the people had gone in so much trouble building a network from them all over the steep slopes of the hills. Only at home I was told by a friend who had worked in Croatia that the hills used to be farmland but tourist trade has made most locals change their jobs.
The 20-minute walk was worth what we came to see: an amazing romantic cove opened in front of us bounded with rocks climbing high. On the seashore there were oval stones, the water was limpid and blue. A few boats were anchoring in the cove, the only people were a few Italians and Germans, and on the rocks one could see very poorly dressed (if dressed at all) couples. Viky found some washed out planks and began building a "board" from them (he meant a windsurf board), but because the stupid adults couldn't get the idea of how to do that without any ropes or nails, he was getting really furious and shouted at us whenever we had one of those idiotic requests to show us how to do it. When swimming, we climbed onto a rocky plateau and discovered, apart from a cigarette lighter drowned in the pond under a large stone, a few pages of a recent issue of a Croatian variation on the Sun newspaper. Unfortunately, we hadn't mastered Croatian enough to enjoy an article about Brad Pitt or local stars, so we just left the paper there for future visitors. On the rocks we also saw the only sea urchin we had seen in Croatia. Before Viky saw it and understood it really couldn't bite him, he was so scared of it he was glued to me like an oyster to a rock.
In the late afternoon, when most of the boat crews started packing up and the Italians walking back up to the car park at Sveti Nikola, we figured it was about time to return. We didn't feel like it at all as the idea of the journey up the hill in such hot weather wasn't very exciting. Fortunately, the sun had gone down on the right side of the cove and the footpath was lined by shadows of the surrounding growth for most of our journey back. When we got to the church, we took a few photos of the church and Viky in the car. Within 5 minutes of the drive Viky fell asleep, ten minutes later we woke him up at Helios and we went to have dinner.
Llamas at German Peter and a devil on the bridge
We spent all Thurday on the two rocky places far from the crowds of the sand beach, and
in the evening the host had a surprise for us - at the entrance to the restaurant there were
tables with glasses of champagne and juice (the choice was up to you) as a greeting from the management.
They didn't turn up themselves though and only sent us their hello. The champagne wasn't bad at all.
On Friday morning we went to Mali Loinj again to buy some food for the journey back. Viky had two ice-creams, and when buying the second one we first saw a Croatian who estimated we were Czech and spoke Czech to us. You see in other parts of Croatia it is much more common that the Croatians have learnt some Czech but Lošinj isn't the most popular place for Czechs to go. The programme for the evening said "Sweet evening" so we were expecting to have bass with peaches or pljeskavica with straberry sauce for dinner, but in the end the meal was as usual, just the choice of food was richer. For example, Viky appreciated chips were offered right from the beginning and didn't appear only after he had put something "plain" on his plate, as it had been the case in the previous days. After dinner we could have ice-cream...Viky's third that day. No, his guts coped very well :-)
On Saturday we were planning to set off quite early so most of our things had been packed since Friday evening. At that time we had a plan where to try to find a room for the night. In the end we left shortly after 9am, which proved not to be the best choice as we found out the Osor bridge opened for ships every day at that time for ships to pass through, so we had to queue there and drove off as part of a long snake of cars. Some of them turned off to go to the island of Krk, which is also joined to Cres with a bridge, but there were still lots of cars left. The time of departure was not that bad after all as we got on the first ferry that had arrived and didn't have to wait. There were no queues at the Croatian-Slovenian border either (unlike a week ago on our way to Coratia) so we were travelling in bright spirits. In Slovenia we were following either tractors or slowly going tourists, and once it was really tight when I didn't estimate Agila's acceleration and a pick up darted at us from a bend. I admit stepping on the brakes wasn't the best thing I should have done...
Behind the Austrian border we were looking out for the village of Loibltal, where we were lucky to get the last free room. It was too bad for the tourists who had come there just moments before us as they didn't speak any German and i did, so I had booked the room before they even found where the person in charge was. Oh well. Learn languages, my dear :-)
We got a room with lovely decorated furniture, there was a terrace with a view of the valley and its stream, the food was excellent and the staff willing to answer my questions. Following the instructions in the leaflet I had obtained from a regional centre before we went on holiday we were going to walk through the valleys of Loiblbach and Bodenbach (streams Loibl and Boden) originally to a gorge but in the end we decided not to walk all that way because it was still very hot during the day, so we just went to see the waterfalls, especially the Tchaukofall, which got its name in honour of Dr. Peter Tchauko, who had done a lot for the region, and whose name was used for the guest house where we were staying. The staff advised us to put on a jacket or sweatshirt as it gets cool in the valley in the morning, and also told us it is possible to get to Meerauge by car. Then, like the morning after, we spent some time feeding Streicheltiere (pets), which included goats, little pigs, llamas, hens and peacocks. The goats loved both Croatian cucumbers and bread, and Viky got a super long peacock feather from the keeper. He also had a go at the children's playground behind the guest house, where he discovered an amazing wooden excavator, on which he could sit and operate the bucket with two levers. Meanwhile we got a text message on our mobile phone that we were returning home to temperatures of 35°C.
In the morning we went along the footpath. It was an amazing walk along the stream, over steps and bridges made of narrow planks as far as the waterfalls and Teufelbrücke - Devil Bridge. Viky ran up and down the bridge like the devil himself but I walked cautiously as the bridge swinging above the rocks and waterfall didn't make me feel exactly happy. Along the path there were notices with names of the plants and trees but unfortunately, we weren't as lucky as to see many bloom except for some cyclamen and flowers considered to be weeds back at home. At least I learnt the lily-of-the-valley is called Maiglöckchen (little May bell) in German :-)
Sea Eye, Milous' ingratitude and a name's day puked all over
Our last tourist stop was Bodental, a valley lined with tens of guest houses, parking cars
and visited by mostly Austrian hikers. Our feet had done a good job already and we didn't
feel like walking all the way to lake Meerauge in the heat at all so we parked the car
just off the path leading to the lake. On the way we had gorgeous views of
mountain meadows surrounded by forests and mountains - just like the Milka-panaromas.
Meerauge (Sea Eye) is a little lake well-known for its extraordinary turquois colour which
is given to it by algae living there. You get there along the Bodenbach
full of river trout, with hundreds of butterflies and singing birds around.
On our way back to the Czech Republic through Austria we had trouble finding the right road towards Pyburg and Pregarten from Mauthausen, where we were driving round in circles, always ending up at a bridge over the Danube. That was also our last stopover abroad. The very final was at a Czech field, where I picked up a few spikelets of barley to have a present for Milouš. Of course I didn't have a clue that he would mind the long barley awns and that I would not only have to cut them off but in the end also tear the seeds off the stem... Is that what you call gratitude?
When we arrived at our house on Sunday evening and I saw the open kitchen window, it made me jump as the only idea I could get was one of Milouš flying around the Czech Republic, which was the better alternative - the other one was Milouš as a cat's dinner. However, the bird was sitting happily on a perch in his cage and obviously wasn't missing us at all.
We had a two days' rest and on Wednesday morning Agila was heading in the direction of Třeboň, where we were going to stay at a camp site by the river as it was terrribly hot. Unfortunately, about half the Czech population had got the same idea so when we arrived at two of the recommended campsites and passed by lots of others which were equally crowded, looking like housing estate car parks and with no shade at all, we forgot putting up our tent directly at a riverbank and settled down in a forest campsite called Paris. There was a pub as well (fast-food but we didn't have to cook so that was fine for a few days), it was only 300m from a sand pit, former quarry, which was now used as a swimming area, and, most importantly, it was quiet, nice and in the shade. On Thursday morning we made a trip to the town of Třeboň to see the historical centre, visit the local castle and have a lunch different from a fried something. In the end it was us who got slightly fried by the sun, but the town is really beautiful and on our way back to Paris we found a lovely place on the river Lužnice with a lovely weir, sandy banks and clear water - much colder than the sand pits but the quiet and beauty of the place were worth some goose bumps :-) and we spent a day and a half there. On Saturday it was Viky's name's day (28 Aug), which he celebrated by throwing up in a pub we came to to have lunch, and later also in the car as he refused to do that into his lovely blue toy bucket with a picture of a yacht. Since then he might remember though he should keep his hat on AT ALL TIMES :-))
- about the guest house Smuk
- about the island Lošinj
- about the guest house Deutscher Peter (also in German and Italian)
- about Tscheppaschlucht, the footpath with waterfalls (German)
- about the town of Třeboň
- about camping around Třeboň
Pronunciation and comments:
|Tržič||[tr-sitch]||the "s" is pronounced like in "measure"|
|Mali, Veli||[mull-i, vel-i]||meaning: small, big|
|Javorna||[ya-vorr-nah]||"javor" means "maple tree" in Czech, in Croatian probably too|
|Meerauge||[mehr-ow-ge]||the "ow" is pronounced like in "cow"|
|Bodental||[bo:-den-tal]||"tal" is valley in German|
|Teufelbrücke||[toy-fel-brü-ke]||"Teufel" is devil in German|
|Lužnice||[lus-nyi-tse-]||the "s" is pronounced like in "measure"|
|Třeboň||[tre-bon]||this doesn't help much because English does not have the consonats ř and ň :-D|
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Here you can find some more photos from the trip. Click on the picture next to it to get the thumbnails. You can get the slides with comments in English by clicking on the thumbnails.